The World is a Wonderful and Horrific Place

Seeing as though Vas has covered all of the basic bullet points from our last few days, I want to take the opportunity to get real and reflect on a few things. The things that we have seen, the people we have met, and the things which we have done over the past two weeks is absolutely unreal. We've climbed mountains, traversed white water, partied hard with Thai locals, received the wisdom and blessings of Buddhist monks and one very amiable Cambodian prince, and walked through the fields where nearly 20,000 innocent men, women, and children were senselessly murdered. We've slept in huts, 4 guesthouses, a bus, and not one, but two, lovely Sun family homes. We've ridden cars, cabs, busses, trains, elephants, motorized long boats, a motorized speed boat, a sky train, bicycles, "red trucks", and every imaginable form of tuk-tuk. We've eaten pad thai, rice noodles, jellyfish, cow's intestine, french toast, waffles, lots of pizza, shitty hamburgers, roast duck, and easily the best steak I have ever had in my life. And to think we haven't even made it to Angor Wat or Ko Samui yet...

I actually want to elaborate more specifically on Phnom Penh and our experience yesterday a bit. Prior to coming here, I had actually done some research on the Khmer Rouge by reading "First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers" by Loung Ung, and had been anticipating our visits to Tuol Sleng and the Choeng Ek killings fields. To think that this all occured less than a decade before my own birth is absolutely mind-boggling. The government of Democratic Kampuchea (Cambodia's name under the Khmer Rouge) actually held a seat at the UN until 1990, and the government which ousted the KR in 1979 was actually condemned by most Western states for several years. As Vas mentions, it is difficult to convey the emotions one feels when walking through the fields of Choeng Ek, with human bones literally protruding from the earth beneath your feet, or the halls of S-21, covered with gruesome photographs of the corpses found there and images of the prison's victims. Nonetheless, I will tell you that one of the most profound moments for me was when I caught myself breathing a short sigh of relief when stumbling across a photo of an elderly man among the hundreds of faces strewn throughout the halls, feeling grateful that he was at least able to lead a full life prior to the war, unlike most of the prison's victims.


What I find most amazing, however, is the lasting impact the Khmer Rouge has had on Cambodia. Because it occured only three decades ago, nearly every single individual has been directly affected by it in some way - families were uprooted, dispersed, and destroyed, and many still remain hopelessly separated. Though the country's potential is enormous (thanks to one particularly inspiring individual), the poverty is rampant in Phnom Penh in ways I did not expect, and in no way comparable to what we have seen in Thailand - an immediate example of how less than 4 years of bloodshed and chaos can set development back more than 20. Just when I was beginning to think there was nothing worse than the persistent tuk-tuk drivers of Bangkok, I was introduced to the impoverished children and landmine victims of Cambodia...

Nevertheless, Lonely Planet aptly describes Cambodia as a country of extremes. Thus while poverty seems ever-present and dark memories of the past linger in the present, the beauty and opulence of places like the Royal Palace and Angkor Wat remain.


This brings me to a much lighter note (an example of the 'extremes' we have encountered here). Last night was in fact one of the more enjoyable we have had here. Along with ten or so relatives and family friends, we were fortunate enough to be served what was easily the best steak dinner I have ever had, cooked especially 'with love' by Mr. Sun himself. Though none of us specifically requested a drink at any point during the evening, they just kept coming! And when the high prince of Cambodia asks you to have a shot of cognac with him, you don't say no. Ask Vas. I also think we danced to "Thriller" three or four times. Forget Michael Jackson though -- I've just been told that Billy Mays passed away today. Damn.


Today was a slow day, as we spent most of it hanging out with the Suns. We did see Wat Phnom, which was interesting, and then went out on the family boat on the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers. We then returned home, played some pretty competitive volleyball games, had dinner, played Go Fish, Old Maid, and Hide and Seek, and Anthony and I are now watching the US of A play Brazil in the Confederations Cup Final in South Africa. 2-0 at half!


Anyway, I had more that I wanted to say, but it's 2:30 in the morning and I'm drawing a blank. We have a 7:30 bus to Siem Reap as well, which is not going to be a ton of fun.

Miss you all! And a big thanks once again to Ratavy, Nyny, and their family for showing us such a great time and welcoming us into their home.

Kyle